Bhutan

Bhutan

Landed in Dhaka, Bangladesh for 30 minutes. From the air it looked like marshy land with irregular rectangle shaped farming on all available land and valleys, and even some mt. Many trees, lakes, rivers and long roads.
I arrived in Bhutan, the Himalayan Kingdom, greeted by my great guide, Jamyang (good looking 25 yr old male, kind and very helpful, and the rule here is he has to be with me at all times I am outside, he even carries my water!) and driver, Kinga. Paro is a very interesting, peaceful place of 65,000 people. It is in the mountains with pine trees and rushing clear river, and reminds me of Colorado. It is the richest and most fertile land in Bhutan. Very distinct building style. Friendly, gentle people. The men wear a robe and knee high socks, and the women wear long skirts and long sleeve boxy blouses. The people are of the Mongoloid race, with light brown skin and Anglo features, with slightly oriental eyes. The language sounds like a mix between Chinese and Indian. (China is to the north, and India is to the south). 90% of the pop lives on subsitance farming. They eat Red rice, cheese with everything, and meat. No cigarettes or alcohol is sold in stores, and can not be brought into the country except for personal use.We visit the local vegetable market (picture1).
I will try to down load pictures but painfully slow computers here.
It is cold here. Maybe 45 degrees during the day, but the sun is bright with a beautiful blue sky, but in the single digits at night. There is no central heating in Bhutan. My hotel consists of private cottages overlooking the mountains and a valley of rice fields.
Today I saw an old Dzong fortress with temple inside. Had a great view of Paro. Paro reminds me of the topography of Aspen in that the town looks up at the close green mountains, with a rushing clear river flowing through it. Bhutan is another Buddist country with a King the people love.
Dec 10
Hiked 1 1/2 hrs through pine forest to the Taktshang Monestary built on the side of a mt., next to a beautiful waterfall, with spectacualr views (picture 2). It is dedicated to the 2nd Buddah who visited this site and brought Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century. Saw Lichen tree which looks like a willow tree and they call 'old mans beard'. Jamyang saw my knee was hurting and asked if I wanted him to carry me down on his back (I declined). He stands in the kitchen to watch that my food is prepared the way I like, and is always asking if I need anything. He is spoiling me!
On the way back to the hotel, we stop for 15 minutes and see an Archery contest, which lasts all day, with many watching families and supporters.
Interesting info about Bhutan:
* Bhutnese believe the dog is the only animal that will be reborn as humans.
* 2008 will be a very big year for Bhutan. The coronation of the new (5th) King.
100 years of Constitutional Monarchy (1907-2007), and they will vote for the first time for a President, as they change to a Democracy.
* There are Prayer flags hanging on top of hills, mountains, bridges, riversides and trees (picture 4). There are 4 kinds: 1) Goindhar-on top of roofs to bring prosperity and peace to eacg member of the husehold and relatives, 2) Lhadhar-God Flag hung on tall polls in front of fortresses, and temples on holy days of the 10th, 15th, and 25th of the month. 3) Lungdhar-Wind Flags-on hills, mts, along the road, identified with a flying horse in the center with jewels on its back- brings prayers for all living beings, 4) Manidhar-hoisted for dead people to get rid if their sins and crimes so they can purify their souls and go to heaven. The flags are in 5 diff colors to represent the 5 elements: white-air, yellow-earth, red-fire, green-wood, blue-water, each with 5 different meditations. The person who hoists, sees, or goes under these flags, recieves blessings.
*The National Emblem has a victory banner on top, a male and female dragon on either side to protect the country, a double thunderbolt in the center to represent the religious (chief Abbot) and the secular(the King), and a lotus an the bottom for purity.
* English is the second language and taught in school. The school uniforms are the traditional dress for boys and girls.
Dec 11
Drive to Thimphu, the capital of 100,000 people. The road is being repaved and widened in honor of the next Kings coronation. We pass about 700 Indian road wrokers (men, women, and their children) using very primitive building methods and tools, hauling dirt in cloth, breaking rocks into little rocks, break backing, dirty work. They live in make shift temporary camps. The Indian govt is doing the road work and the building of most new projects since most Bhutanese will not do this kind of work. They want to farm the land and work for themselves. The main crops are rice, corn, wheat, millet, potatoes, other veg. ,apples, oranges, and bananas.
I saw the National Library, which has a some English books, but is primarily books about the history and culture of Bhutan. There is also a public library.
Dec 12
I had a majical day! Hiked 40 minutes up to the Tango Monestary built in the 15th century with great mountain and valley view (picture 3). It is an educational college for 200 of the most talented and brilliant monks. I had a rare opportunity to witness the monks doing their ceremonial prayers, with their chanting, ringing bells, drums, blowing shells, 2 trumpets that looked like candle sticks, and the drinking of the holy water which they drink from their hands and then put on their heads and face. The temple room is about 20ft by 30ft and had about 40 monks sitting on the floor and carpet. I was standing in the corner and was also given the holy water. It was very cool! I turned the 10 ft prayer wheel which is supposed to spread blessings. On the hiking path up the mt. there are many trash cans written with one of these messages: 'I Love Nature', 'Learn to love the enviroment', 'Use me', 'Keep me clean', 'I Love Clean'.
After a delicious lunch, driving to Sangayang, the valley view point, we stopped by a rushing river where I meditated.
Sangayang has many prayer flags with great views overlooking Thimphu (picture 4). The guide and I walked down to the Takin Zoo and saw Takin and deer in their natural habitat. Another beautiful place.
From here we went to the impressive Dashi Fortress, where the King works with his ministers on one side, and the Chief Abbot lives with other monks on the other side. Across the river is the Assembly building.
The Druk Hotel, where I am staying, is next to a large open courtyard surrounded by shops, which is used for community gatherings and for locals to sit and relax. The entire town looks up at the nearby mountains. Every day has been sunny with blue skies. It gets chilly after the sun goes down. It is peaceful and beautiful.

I would like to return to Bhutan and spend a month here. I think this is a place to invest a little money in Real Estate. There is a lot of building going on, and I think the future of Bhutan will offer many investment opportunities. It reminds me very much of ski towns in Colorado.
Dec 13
Met with Chentsho, the owner of Bhutan tour company. I ask him to find out about the posibility of buying property here even though it is probably imposible. On way to Punakha, I buy a large bag of apples to give to the Indian women and children working on the roads in subhuman conditions. Apples are expensive here. We drive 2 hours on narrow, twisting, mt road, through ancient forests filled with Bombax, silver fur, and lynchen trees, furns, and, step farms. Pass many cows, bulls, and goats on the road.
They feed pigs the wild marijuana plants which make them eat and sleep a lot, and get fat. The people do not smoke it. Property is inherited by the women in the family, but rarely do they sell because it is expected to be passed on to the next generation. The river has rushing clear blue green water, perfect for kayaking and rafting.
We hike up to the fertility temple, Chimilhekhing, built in the 15th century overlooking the valley, rice fields, and river. Children who are studying to become monks, start their education here at 10 years old. We pass through a village and its rice fields, with cows, work horses. See large piles of manure to fertilize soil.
Visit the very impressive Punkha Dzong Fortress, built in the 17th century by Zhabdrung, the person who unified Bhutan. It is the winter residence of the Chief Abbot and the Central Monk Body, and the winter work place for the King. The Temple there is the largest temple in Bhutan, with intricate, ornate detail covering every inch. We have to cross a very primative high bridge to get there. I then took a walk on the river, and continued on to the hotel.
Dec 14
I wake up to a complete mist white out. We drive to Phobjikhe, the Valley of the Black-necked crane. We hike up to the KhamsungYueley Namgyel Temple, which was built by the Queen in 1999. Walked through rice fields, and saw villagers pounding the rice out of the rice stalks, children grazing cows, and Jamyang pointed ot a man using a 'modern method' of a using a simple machine powered by foot that rolls one bunch of stalk at a time and takes out the rice. Again spectacular views of rushing river snaking through the mts and valleys. This temple is unique in that it has 108 stupas.

Dec 15

We drive through the mts to next to a village 1 block long. I like this place in the middle of nowhere! My room is a 2 story building 6 rooms 10 feet from a rushing, clear blue river with large boulders (picture 5). Electicity is available only during certain hours. On the property is a very good vegetarian rest overlooking the river. Yamyang and I cross the river on a rickety bridge with a farmer and his horse loaded with goods. As we hike up a narrow path, we pass a bull, a cow, and several locals carrying loads on their back. We hike up to a farm house with a prayer flag. I listen to the sound of the river as I fall asleep.

Dec 16

I do an early morning hike up the same path as yesterday, twice (It only takes 20 min to get to the top). I pass a family carrying sacks on there back who wonder what I am doing. We drive 4 hours on winding mt road to return to Paro. I take Jamyang and Kinga shopping for their tip gifts in Thimpu on our way to Paro. A room heater and jacket for Jamyang, and a winter jacket and knee socks for Kinga. I leave the coat I bought my first night in Paro for Kingas wife who is expecting their first baby in Jan.

My last night in Bhutan, I am falling asleep and hear a loud scratching noise and think an animal is in my room. I use positive self talk, and pull my covers higher over my head. I then hear noise closer to my bed and say to myself it must be under the cottage. After a while the noise stops and I get out of bed to look around. I see that a bag with nuts and granola that I threw in the garbage basket is torn and was moved to the floor in the bathroom. I grab the bag and throw it out the door as far as I can. I look around the bathroom and after confirming I don´t have any extra company, go to sleep. The next morning at breakfast I relay the story and am told it was probably a raccoon.

Cambodia: Ankor Wat

Cambodia· Ankor Wat

Dec 6
5:30am pick up for flight to Cambodia. I am only visiting teh city of Siem Reap where Ankor Wat is located. The Ankor Village Hotel is very cool. Made out of wood, surrounded by ponds, and lush plants everywhere. Siem Reap is a tourist town with lots of young people.
Ankor Wat is unbelieveable!!!!!!!!!!! Ankor is a large area with many amazing temple ruins (picture 2). Ta Phrom Temple which had huge trees growing on ancient roofs with huge roots reaching in and out of the building itself was an extraordinary visual experience (picture 3). There were echo rooms where if you stand in a certain place and hit your chest with a flat hand, it created a loud echo. An erie loud whistle sound that came from the forest by a bug, permeates the area.

Ankor Wat is filled with ancient energy, surreal, made out of sandstone with detailed designs and insriptions telling the story of the life of the people, their Kings, and their wars. I climbed a hill to Phem Bakheng Temple for sunset that has a view of the entire surrounding area includihng Ankor Wat and the Great Lake.

Triped on my way back to my hotel from the internet cafe and took a bad fall, scrapted 3 inches of skin below my elbow and of course hit my bad knee. As I return to my hotel with blood dripping down my arm, I ask for ice. I am told by the receptionist "no ice" until morning. I am handed a used wash cloth that had been previously chilled and given as a welcoming gesture to a guest. I was in pain all night and have been putting ice on it all day. My knee is bruised and my arm will probably have several scars.

Dec 7
The entrance to Angkor Thom has 54 Demon and 54 God statues lining opposite sides of the road. The Bayon Temple has many towers with the 4 faces of Buddah facing each direction (picture 1).
Went swimming at noon, and then onto the Ankor National Museum. I walked through the stately and elegant Victoria Hotel, which I originally was supposed to stay at but decided to downgrade.
Then onto the Great Lake Tonle Sap, catching a boat at Chang Klineas, to see the floating fishing village consisting of very poor people living on boats made of scraps of wood and metal (picture 5 and 6). The village moves with the season (dry vs rainy). The forest is half under water in the rainy season and dry during the dry season. Two very poor local children drove my boat.
Dec 8
In addition to the high entrace passes charged by the Cambodian Govt., the French and Japanese Govt. provide money and know how for the massive restorations projects going on in the many temples in this Country.
See the recently opened ruins of Beng Melia, and then back to Ankor to see Bantrey Srei temple with its inticately carved pink sandstone walls (picture 4). Catch 10pm flight back to Bangkok, and next morn 6am flight onto Bhutan.

Thailand, Chiang Mai, Chaing Rai, Bankok

Thailand· Chaing Mai, Chaing Rai, Bankok

Nov. 28

Staying at Yaang Cove Village hotel. Very cool! Great location, temple style 4 units to a building, great 2 hour message in my hotel room for $20, and great food at japanese rest near by. The market I saw tonight has cheap copies of all the big brands.
Traveling as often as I am from place to place is trying and takes a lot of time, but I am glad I get to see so many places with many different visual experiences. I will know where I want to go back to. I will continue to plan the same way. It is the only way to even begin to see a country in 1 or 2 weeks. Traveling alone has actually been fine, but sometimes I wish I was sharing it with someone I love and or care about (ie: a friend, one of my children, or lover).
Today took Thai group cooking class (picture 2). We went to the market where we learned about the ingredients we would later cook, then they did a demonstration of 5 diff dishes, which we cooked, and then ate. It was very good but way too much food, so of course I took a doggy bag. Took a 2 hour walk with my guide around the city of Chaing Mai. I was able to have a 30 min conversation with a novice Monk who was sitting at a table with a sign saying 'Monk Chat', next to one of the many Buddist temples I went to (picture 6). He spoke good English, and was open to answering my questions in a friendly and welcoming manner. Then I made a donation.

Walked by a school where parents were picking up their children on motorcycles (as in many Asian countries, common to see the whole family on one bike). At 7 pm I walked about a mile to the flower market. It is safe even by myself at night. On my way there I walked to the river, and saw many inviting resturaunts. The flower market was good, but next to it was a long street with stalls selling every kind of freshly ccoked food, yet different then the markets I have seen in Vietnam or Laos. There was no place to sit down and eat it. They put the "fast food" in plastic bags puffed with air, and then tie it with a thin rubberband. Hundreds of mostly teenagers, and young people waitng in short lines buying combinations of food I found interesting.

Nov 29

Picked up at 8:30am to go on 3hr. leasurely bike ride just outside of the city to see how the local people live (picture 5). Saw many temples, logan trees and califlower fields, with new expensive homes next to ordinary and not so nice ones. Went swimming, and then went with guide to see view of Chang Mai from the mountains, and back to the city to see a few art galleries. Also, drove by the University of Chaing Mai which is located on 500 acres of beautiful lush land, and has 13,000 students.

My guide, Chai, has a degree in Social Work. He volunteers for organizing the building of paved roads, piping for running water, schools, planting of trees for reforestation, and bridges in villages that otherwise would be completely isolated during the flooding season. He has an arrangement with a University in Austrailia, that provides students and money to help with these projects.

Went to dinner at the Gallery Rest on the river that I saw last night. The BBQ salmon with veg was so good.

Nov. 30

3 hr Drive to Chaing Rai. Very Zen boutique hotel. The night market had different Hill tribes selling their hand made crafts. I should have bought many more of these inexpensive handmade items. Took the 'tuk tuk' both ways.

Nov31

The Kings picture is everywhere. There are many events in honor of his 80th birthday. Went to Mae Sai on the Burmese border. The people here also speak Burmese, as the people who live on the border with Loas speak Loa. Went to the Jade factory. There are many Chinese products sold here since they come through Burma.

Visited the Hall of Opium Museum which was very informative and well presented. The British gov pushed the opium trade onto the Chinese after they lost the Opiun War, at great profit to the British. Millions of chinese were addicted and this contributed to the decline of the country. Until 60 years ago, opium was only used for medicinal purposes, and not for illegal export.

Then short drive to Chaing Saen, old port town with a pop of 50,000. This is the heart of the Golden Triangle where Laos, China (8 hr boat ride), Thailand, and Burma come together aka Indochina. I think this place is very touristy, and not worth seeing. There is a Porche converntion in Thailand and in this sleepy town I saw 6 Porches parading on the street.

The Thai use used rubber to make chairs and table tops. They also use it to make storage bins for califlower after picking from the fields, and garbage bins in many public areas.

Had another great 2 hr. message for $22 at Sayan, owned by Methinee Jitmian

Sun. Dec 2

Arrive in Bankok and stay at the Amari Watergate Hotel. Met Bills friends at the World Allergy conference, Ilona and Larry, Ruthy and Hal, Barbara and Ira Feingold, and many others. Everyone was very nice. Ilona has included me everynight in their events.

Dec 3

Ilona joined me for my day tour. Visited Presidential Palace (picture 4) We then took 4 diff boats of diff sizes to get to the shallow, narrow river pathways. It was a 2 seater fast boat that made me feel like we were really seeing how the people on the river live (picture 1). The wood and metal 'homes' are on stilts, with ladders going down into the river. Their life is based on the river (picture 4). Small boats deliver people, supplies, and even cooked food. They don't pay for the water rights to build their 'homes', but just pay minimal taxes. As the family grows with the next generation, another 'home' is added in front of the original. We went into the Oriental Hotel to check it out. The inviting tea room is filled with an abundance of beautiful flowers and plants.

Dec 4

Rode bike with guide in dangerous traffic, then into extreme poverty area with trash, narrow walkways with dogs and children. Took bike on little ferry boat to ride through plantations and villages.

3ft wide cement walkways with 3 to 5 ft drops on either side into muddy water. When motorcycles and other people came in the opposite direction it was a little freaky. A poisinous snake was on the path and my guide had to chase it away. Spent most of the time on little village roads. Very cool.

Dec 5th

No plan today. Stayed in bed, exercized, late breakfast, shopping, internet, big event tonight with Ilona and group. Tommorrow pick up at 5:30am for airport. On to Ankor Wat.

Laos

Loas

Wed. Nov 21

Swim, breakfast, drive to Da Nang airport for flight to Hanoi, and then onto Laos.

Thurs. Nov 22

Bread and Breakfast in Luang Probang is cute but toilet fell off and motorbike traffic all night, so ear plugs help. ($40 per night) Guide pick up at 9am walk around the town to see temples (picture 4). One temple is enouph. Cute tourist town with lots of history on the Mekong River. There are 3 main groups of prople in Laos, the Loa Loum of the lowlands(55%), the Lao Thuang of the highlands (34%), and the Lao Soun hilltribe people (10%) , each with a different language and culture. 80 % of all the people are Buddists .
We drive 1 hour each way to see a huge waterfall (picture 5) with many pools of light blue water. The climb up to the top is difficult and I slip, further aggravating my injured knee. I am in a lot of pain and can hardly walk. I went to a local Dr. who gave me ointment and a wrap. I am at the internet cafe where the attendant is helping me download many pictures to this blog which are taking forever!

Fri Nov 23

8:30 pick up take 2 hour boat ride (picture 3) on Mekong river to see caves with 1000's of Buddas. The ride on the river was beautiful. Fertile land so no fertilizer is needed. Then swim and message, and dinner the very exclusive La Residence Phon Vao hotel with spectacular views, service, and food. You now where I am again, internet cafe which are everywhere.

Sat Nov 24

Go to National museum. Interesting glass mosaics. Then walk around the town, few hours on internet, then climb 400 steps to top of hill where 100 people go to see sunset. Picture 2 is of Luang Probang from the top. Walk around the Night Bazaar but worry about adding weight to my luggage.

Sun Nov 25

8:30 departure for 5 hr curvy mountainous drive to Vang Vieng. Pass many villages. See many small children bent over walking on the road with rice bags on their back and heads after helping their parents work in the rice fields. I bought pencils, sharpeners, paper, toothbrush, etc. and gave them to children along the way. After arriving in Vang Vieng, which is surrounded by limestone mountains, on the Song river, climbed 147 steps to see a big cave with Stalgmites and Stalagtites. This cave and others have been used by the local people as a shelter from invading armies (but they didn't have steps). "Quaint" town, duplex style hotel where the walls were so thin I could hear the man next door snore all night even with my ear plugs, and the sheets were so thin I slept on a towel. Food and servie was good. Bribe desk clerk at another hotel to swim in the pool, since that is the only exercise I can do due to knee injury. Not worth the 9 hours over two days to visit here. Would have been better to fly from Luang Probang to Vientang. However, Unbelievable blinding sunset with mountains behind the river.

Getting tired of hole in the ground toilets. Haven't figured out how to 'flush' it. There is a bucket with water but don't want to touch it since in the villages there is never any soap or running water in these bathrooms. I prefer the 'bush'!

My driver looks like he is 16 years old but is 29 and has 2 children. My guide is a 33 year old single female whose mother supported her and her 3 siblings by selling noodle soup. Her father died while being 're-educated' by the communists in 1976. The Loa people were controlled by the chinese for 10 years, the French for 20 years twice, and the Americans for 20 years, before and during the Vietnam war. They have believed in Spirits since the 14th century, were Hindus for 900 years, and Buddists for the last 400 years. There are 7 Buddas, one for everyday. Between the age of 10 and 20 children can become Novices, and live and get educated at the temple sites (shaved head, orange wrap). For many of them it is the only way they can get an education. At the age of 21 they can choose to become Monks. If a man becomes a Monk they believe it helps their parents go to heaven.

Upon entering many places, must take off shoes and leave them outside by the front door. Cleanliness is less then standard. Where the locals eat, no soap in bathroom and maybe a towel everyond shares since many eat with fingers. This includes the food servers, who touch the food with their hands and then everthing else.

Mon. Nov 26

Early 3 hour drive to Vientiane capital of Laos, with pop of 700,000 . Many wide boulevards, more developed. Spectacular sunset overlooking river with Thailand on other side. Looked like a huge orange ball dropping from the sky (picture 1). The afterglow continued for 50 minutes! Saying at very nice Hotel with big swimming pool. Early am pick up to airport for flights to Bangkok, and onto Chaing Mai, Thailand,

Hue, Hoi An, more special places

Hue and Hoi An

Sat Nov 17

Picked up by another guide and driver for 4 1\2 hr drive to Ho Chi Min City(Saigon) for flight to Hue. On the way we stop at Co-Op Mart, the only chain grocery store in the Provence. I was so impressed. Everything is colorful from the pictures on the walls, the fake palm trees with bright flowers, to the signage. The shelves are well organized, clean with brightly wrapped goods. Six woman greeters in uniforn welcome you as you enter. Cash only. On the road see many students in their beautiful white school uniforms riding their bicylcles to school (picture 1).
Upon arrival in Hue, picked up by guide Khan, and driver Quan, and check into the elegant Imperial Hotel. Great room with view of the lake and city, great food and service. Spend evening at internet cafe.

Sun Nov 18
Walk to Dong Ba Market (picture 3) Very interesting. Wares, vegetables of every color and shape, live fish, pork insides everywhere. Then walk to Imperial City, and through the Citadel area to lunch at Yhao Garden Rest. Driver picked us up and drove to Minh Mang Tomb on peaceful, lush, beautiful lake where I meditate for a little while. Then onto the extra-ordinary Khaidinh Tomb which has all the walls decorated with unbelievable 3 dimestional mosaic tile pieces (picture 2).

Constantly raining hard on and off the whole time in Hue. Then walk to galleries with local art. Eat left over lunch and meet Karen and Rie (2 women I met on Mekon Delta Junk) to listen to music, but don't like it so we go to Imperial Hotel lobby for tea.

Mon Nov. 19

Up for 6 am swim and great breakfast. Drive to Hoi An, passing through Da Nang, with lots of construction including many 5 star resorts on China Beach, where American soldiers were stationed during the war. Drive Pass through mountains into clouds. Beautiful and lush, with waterfalls.

Hoi An has a 3000 year old history. It was a major port but due to geological changes it is now just a tourist destination.Parts of the town are still underwater due to the flooding. Walked the town with guide. Spent hours choosing fabric for bed covers and shams for Max, David, and Linda. Check into the Victoria Beach Resort. WOW! I am in a fantastic one story suite with walk to ocean. The olympic size outdoor swimming pool in 20 feet away. The weather is windy with rough seas. Spend another evening with the computer.

Tues Nov 20

After 6:30 swim, another sumptuous breakast, walk around herb and vegetable farm. Each person in the town gets a plot of land. Walk on beach, spend another few hours at fabric store to figure out measurments, great dinner at Tam Tam Cafe.

Ha Long Bay, Mekong Delta, Phan Thiet

Arived in Hanoi at 5am, then worked on Blog and went to the Sofitel Metropol for an unbelieveable brunch. Went swimming at a place "Q" suggested where I was the only caucasion. Next morn left on the 3 hour drive to Ha long Bay. Spent the night on a Junk in the Bay of 3000 rock hills jutting up out of the ocean (picture 5). Very strange! Great boat, great people, and good food. Went to see an amazing cave (picture 6) and then went kayaking (picture 7). There were at least 20 other boats all around us as it is a very popular tourist destination.
Due to flooding in Hue, my trip will be rerouted. After drivng back to Hanoi, I caught a flight to Saigon arriving to the hotel at 10pm. Saigon has wider streets and sidewalks so it seems more orderly then Hanoi and there is less horn honking. I was picked up the next morning at 7am for a 3 1/2 hour drive to Can Tho to catch another Junk (picture 8) for an overnight trip on the Mekong Delta. This boat has 12 cabins and I am assigned to the english speaking server and guide. She is very accomodating and the food is the best I have had in Vietnam.

The Meking Delta is an amazing place of 16 million people living off the abundant water and fertile land. The water is muddy brown, yet beautiful and lush like Miami, Fl. We pass primitive wood huts and old tug boats of every size and purpose carrying people and cargo.
(picture 3)
We walked through a local village and saw how they lived, and we ate at one "home" with mud floor, solid wood table that serves as a table during the day and a bed for 2 at night. The kitchen had 3 pots sitting on carved out tree trunks, storage of friut, firewood, and 3 bicycles. There was a TV, as in many of the homes. I bring combs and tooth brushes for these village children (picture 1).

The plants are exotic. Many parts of the plants and fruits are used for food, fuel, and to make things. For example, all of the rice is used for 4 purposes: The husk is for pig food, the people eat the white rice inside, the broken rice is used for chicken feed, and the ash is used as fuel to cook. The longan fruit shell and black seed is used for fuel, and the inner fruit is dried to preserve it . The village has rice fields, and a narrow paved sidewalk used for walking, motorcycles, and bicycles. (picture 4) is the toilet in the village.
Next morning we visited the floating market which is amazing to see. We took a small boat to see how food and other products are made, and shop for locally made products from rice, coconut, silk, crockodile, and longan fruit. We see how rice paper is made, popped rice and popped caramel corn, and coconut and banana candy. We buy crockodile wallets and belts, and silk products.

At noon I was picked up by my guide and driver and for a 6 1/2 hour drive to Plan Thiet, a beach resort town. Bamboo Resort is a very relaxing nice place with lounge chairs on the white, soft sand, 2 pools, nice room with french doors, great food at the open cabana style resturant with simple creative decorations, friendly accomodating service (picture 2). The beach is miles long with bungalo style resorts all the way. Tbis is a very specail place I hope to come back to and share with someone. I noticed an elegant, polished, exclusive looking place called the Coco Beach Resort.
Tommorrow morn I will be driven 4 1/2 hours to Saigon to catch a flight to Hue.

Otherworldly Sapa

Otherworldly Sapa

We took the difficult overnight train to Lao Cai. "Q" carries our luggage across many train tracks to get to my train car. There are 4 bunks in a compartment, so they bought me 4 tickets so I could have my own. Good thing I brought my own toilet paper and soap. We are woken up at 5 am to disembark at 5:30am. This lush nice town is alive with activity. It is only a 5 minute drive to China. Our driver takes us for a 3 hour drive to visit the market of the Minority people in Dam Duong. The misty, windy, narrow road is filled with many uniformed children walking and biking to school, motorbikes, buses, trucks, and cars. The weather is cool and the mountains are lush, and the sunrise is amazing.

Soon we are above the clouds on our way to 2500 ft. In the rainy season ther are many mudslides. The land is very furtile and they grow roses, tea, pumpkin, cabbage, raise trout and many other vegetables. Aluminum quarries are on the side of the road, and some of the rock is used to stop potential mudslides. After another 2 hour drive we arrive in the quaint small town of Sapa with everything from outdoor food markets to a few galleries featuring local artists.

We arrive at the peaceful Topas Eco Lodge located on the top of a misty mountain, looking over step rice fields, several Tay and Black Hmong (the people wear dark indigo clothing) villages.

The scene is otherworldly. The new stone and wood cottages with balcanies that have magnificant views, no phone, TV, or internet, yet there is cell reception. Three great

meals a day prepared by an onsite chef are included.

The next morning is a beautiful day and I go with a guide on a bike ride down the very rocky and in some places muddy mountain to a remote village of the Hmong people. It is very pretty, with pigs, chickens,step rice fields, and of course many children. The area reminds me of the mountains of Colorado except they are lush and green. We continue walking up on a very narrow path to see an even more remote village of the Red people (they wear red head dressings) and live a very primitive life. A jeep picks us up from the village where our bikes are and on our way back I hear quacking. The driver had bought a few ducks for dinner that quacked all the to my hotel.

The next morning I walked down the rice fields by myself and passed a handful of tribes people. They are friendly but don't speak english. I felt very safe. At 4:30 pm I caught a 40 minute van ride to Sapa to use the internet. I took a motorcycle taxi back to the Lodge at 7 pm. It was totally black, bumpy, and cold. I closed my eyes the whole way.

Tommorrow I take the uncomfortable overnight train ride back to Hanoi.

Hanoi Communism with Capitalism?

Hanoi

Nov 7

This morning we went to Ho Chi Min tomb and Presidential Palace. The Vietnam people are very proud of him. The Temple of Literature is where the Royal children were schooled. In 1425 the poor people from the provinces competed to be chosen to study there, and they were to become the leaders of the country.

I asked "Q", my guide, about how the Vietnamese feel toward Americans. He said his grandparents who were in the war do not like to interact with Americans. His father was shot in the leg by an American soldier, and even though he previously did not like Americans, his parents are now more accepting. "Q" belives the younger generation who did not experience the war, like American music, clothes cigerettes, and have a positive attitude toward Americans. He agrees with America going into Iraq and getting rid of Saddam.

He is the middle child of 3. Since he was 6 months old, his mother worked at the embassy in Hong Kong, and would come home to visit for 2 weeks every 2 years. This schedule continued until he was 11 years old. When I asked him how he felt about this, he told me he remembers being driven to school on a bicycle and how all the children thought his mother must have a very important job to be able to afford a bike. He likes the current system of communism with controled capitalism.

All motor vehicles use their horn constantly to let everyone else know where they are. It is unerving! Many women on motorcycles wear scarves on there faces to protect themselves from the sun.

I walked around the Hoin kiem Lake near my hotel, which is like the 'Central Park' of Hanoi. It is in the middle of Old Hanoi. 1'000s of people, walking, jogging, lovers kissing, traffic and shopping all around the boardwalk.

"Q" is getting married in 20 days to a girl is also a tour guide. He is 27 years old, and says this is the average age for a male to get married.

Hanoi Wild, Busy, Crazy place

Hanoi
Wild, Busy, Crazy place

Nov 6

Today I was picked up at the airport in Hanoi by my young english speaking guide. He will travel with me on my entire trip to the north. My guide told me that 10 years ago the dream was to have a bicycle, now it is to have a car and big house. After checking into my hotel, I walked into the madness of Hanoi: 5 million people, motorcycles everywhere, street vendors covering every inch of sidewalk, constant horn beeping, noise, winding maze of streets, small narrow shops (picture 1 and 2). I walked to a park (it's their Central Park)with a large lake in the middle of this bustling city. It took me 20 minutes to find a resturaunt that was only 3 blocks away. Luckily the menu was in English. There are few street lights, so you just cross the streets with hundreds of fast moving vehicles, mostly motorcycles, coming at you hoping you make it to the other side in one piece. The computer at this internet cafe is soooo slow. The time difference to Denver is at least 14 hours. I am going to take a shower and go to sleep. Tommorow is a full day tour of Hanoi, and then an overnight train to Sapa.

Even war cannot take this away

Even war cannot take this away

I am staying with my son who lives in Tel Aviv with his girlfriend in a great condo with a view from every room of the Mediterranian Ocean. I am enjoying their love and feel so blessed. It is Shabbat so many people are on the beach. Such an idealic scene with peole playing chess, backgammon, kadima, yoga, tai chi, swimming, kite surfing, fishing on the rocks, sitting in the many outdoor cafe's, 50 sail boats, hundreds walking on the boardwalk, with the sun shinning, a cool breeze, and rolling waves. The sunset was amazing with every color of the rainbow, and Jaffa, a 4000 year old port reaching out into the ocean, a 30 minute walk in the distance. I am supposed to do a hospital fundraiser bike ride with my son, but hurt my knee today jogging on the beach. Going to the doctor.
Nanogi

Miami Oct 24 2007

Miami Oct 24 2007
I am off to Israel and the continuation of my journey,
and the begining of my travels.
I am a planner, but hope to work on being in the present. I have tried to learn from my past mistakes, but am trying not dwell on my past or future.
I did not study the places I am going to visit, and the joke with my friends is that I am going to travel the world and don't even know where I am going on a map. That is why I have arranged to have a guide and driver every where I go. I even get lost driving in Denver, which is why I have On Star (a service that locates my car by satelite and helps direct me to my destinations).

Miami Oct 19 2007

Miami Oct 19 2007

My youngest daughter is leaving for college. I have decided to follow a dream of mine to travel the world. It must have been meant to be because within 6 weeks, I left my job with Coldwell Banker, I rented my house furnished to a tenant, I chose the countries I will visit and the month I will visit them, decided to base out of Miami, Florida and picked what I needed to take with me for a year, learned how to set up and use a blog, said goodby to friends and family, and made many strategic and logistical decisions.

This picture was taken on the top of a hike with friends this summer in Aspen, Colorado. We decided to each do a yoga position on this rock. To me it represents the concentration and focus that was required in organizing and pulling off this journey.
I will be signing all posts as Nanogi. Nano is because I do everything in a nano second, and gi is for my spiritual energy.
I am organizing all my things, finalizing travel arrangements, seeing friends, and family.
It's all good!
Nanogi