Thailand, Chiang Mai, Chaing Rai, Bankok

Thailand· Chaing Mai, Chaing Rai, Bankok

Nov. 28

Staying at Yaang Cove Village hotel. Very cool! Great location, temple style 4 units to a building, great 2 hour message in my hotel room for $20, and great food at japanese rest near by. The market I saw tonight has cheap copies of all the big brands.
Traveling as often as I am from place to place is trying and takes a lot of time, but I am glad I get to see so many places with many different visual experiences. I will know where I want to go back to. I will continue to plan the same way. It is the only way to even begin to see a country in 1 or 2 weeks. Traveling alone has actually been fine, but sometimes I wish I was sharing it with someone I love and or care about (ie: a friend, one of my children, or lover).
Today took Thai group cooking class (picture 2). We went to the market where we learned about the ingredients we would later cook, then they did a demonstration of 5 diff dishes, which we cooked, and then ate. It was very good but way too much food, so of course I took a doggy bag. Took a 2 hour walk with my guide around the city of Chaing Mai. I was able to have a 30 min conversation with a novice Monk who was sitting at a table with a sign saying 'Monk Chat', next to one of the many Buddist temples I went to (picture 6). He spoke good English, and was open to answering my questions in a friendly and welcoming manner. Then I made a donation.

Walked by a school where parents were picking up their children on motorcycles (as in many Asian countries, common to see the whole family on one bike). At 7 pm I walked about a mile to the flower market. It is safe even by myself at night. On my way there I walked to the river, and saw many inviting resturaunts. The flower market was good, but next to it was a long street with stalls selling every kind of freshly ccoked food, yet different then the markets I have seen in Vietnam or Laos. There was no place to sit down and eat it. They put the "fast food" in plastic bags puffed with air, and then tie it with a thin rubberband. Hundreds of mostly teenagers, and young people waitng in short lines buying combinations of food I found interesting.

Nov 29

Picked up at 8:30am to go on 3hr. leasurely bike ride just outside of the city to see how the local people live (picture 5). Saw many temples, logan trees and califlower fields, with new expensive homes next to ordinary and not so nice ones. Went swimming, and then went with guide to see view of Chang Mai from the mountains, and back to the city to see a few art galleries. Also, drove by the University of Chaing Mai which is located on 500 acres of beautiful lush land, and has 13,000 students.

My guide, Chai, has a degree in Social Work. He volunteers for organizing the building of paved roads, piping for running water, schools, planting of trees for reforestation, and bridges in villages that otherwise would be completely isolated during the flooding season. He has an arrangement with a University in Austrailia, that provides students and money to help with these projects.

Went to dinner at the Gallery Rest on the river that I saw last night. The BBQ salmon with veg was so good.

Nov. 30

3 hr Drive to Chaing Rai. Very Zen boutique hotel. The night market had different Hill tribes selling their hand made crafts. I should have bought many more of these inexpensive handmade items. Took the 'tuk tuk' both ways.

Nov31

The Kings picture is everywhere. There are many events in honor of his 80th birthday. Went to Mae Sai on the Burmese border. The people here also speak Burmese, as the people who live on the border with Loas speak Loa. Went to the Jade factory. There are many Chinese products sold here since they come through Burma.

Visited the Hall of Opium Museum which was very informative and well presented. The British gov pushed the opium trade onto the Chinese after they lost the Opiun War, at great profit to the British. Millions of chinese were addicted and this contributed to the decline of the country. Until 60 years ago, opium was only used for medicinal purposes, and not for illegal export.

Then short drive to Chaing Saen, old port town with a pop of 50,000. This is the heart of the Golden Triangle where Laos, China (8 hr boat ride), Thailand, and Burma come together aka Indochina. I think this place is very touristy, and not worth seeing. There is a Porche converntion in Thailand and in this sleepy town I saw 6 Porches parading on the street.

The Thai use used rubber to make chairs and table tops. They also use it to make storage bins for califlower after picking from the fields, and garbage bins in many public areas.

Had another great 2 hr. message for $22 at Sayan, owned by Methinee Jitmian

Sun. Dec 2

Arrive in Bankok and stay at the Amari Watergate Hotel. Met Bills friends at the World Allergy conference, Ilona and Larry, Ruthy and Hal, Barbara and Ira Feingold, and many others. Everyone was very nice. Ilona has included me everynight in their events.

Dec 3

Ilona joined me for my day tour. Visited Presidential Palace (picture 4) We then took 4 diff boats of diff sizes to get to the shallow, narrow river pathways. It was a 2 seater fast boat that made me feel like we were really seeing how the people on the river live (picture 1). The wood and metal 'homes' are on stilts, with ladders going down into the river. Their life is based on the river (picture 4). Small boats deliver people, supplies, and even cooked food. They don't pay for the water rights to build their 'homes', but just pay minimal taxes. As the family grows with the next generation, another 'home' is added in front of the original. We went into the Oriental Hotel to check it out. The inviting tea room is filled with an abundance of beautiful flowers and plants.

Dec 4

Rode bike with guide in dangerous traffic, then into extreme poverty area with trash, narrow walkways with dogs and children. Took bike on little ferry boat to ride through plantations and villages.

3ft wide cement walkways with 3 to 5 ft drops on either side into muddy water. When motorcycles and other people came in the opposite direction it was a little freaky. A poisinous snake was on the path and my guide had to chase it away. Spent most of the time on little village roads. Very cool.

Dec 5th

No plan today. Stayed in bed, exercized, late breakfast, shopping, internet, big event tonight with Ilona and group. Tommorrow pick up at 5:30am for airport. On to Ankor Wat.

Laos

Loas

Wed. Nov 21

Swim, breakfast, drive to Da Nang airport for flight to Hanoi, and then onto Laos.

Thurs. Nov 22

Bread and Breakfast in Luang Probang is cute but toilet fell off and motorbike traffic all night, so ear plugs help. ($40 per night) Guide pick up at 9am walk around the town to see temples (picture 4). One temple is enouph. Cute tourist town with lots of history on the Mekong River. There are 3 main groups of prople in Laos, the Loa Loum of the lowlands(55%), the Lao Thuang of the highlands (34%), and the Lao Soun hilltribe people (10%) , each with a different language and culture. 80 % of all the people are Buddists .
We drive 1 hour each way to see a huge waterfall (picture 5) with many pools of light blue water. The climb up to the top is difficult and I slip, further aggravating my injured knee. I am in a lot of pain and can hardly walk. I went to a local Dr. who gave me ointment and a wrap. I am at the internet cafe where the attendant is helping me download many pictures to this blog which are taking forever!

Fri Nov 23

8:30 pick up take 2 hour boat ride (picture 3) on Mekong river to see caves with 1000's of Buddas. The ride on the river was beautiful. Fertile land so no fertilizer is needed. Then swim and message, and dinner the very exclusive La Residence Phon Vao hotel with spectacular views, service, and food. You now where I am again, internet cafe which are everywhere.

Sat Nov 24

Go to National museum. Interesting glass mosaics. Then walk around the town, few hours on internet, then climb 400 steps to top of hill where 100 people go to see sunset. Picture 2 is of Luang Probang from the top. Walk around the Night Bazaar but worry about adding weight to my luggage.

Sun Nov 25

8:30 departure for 5 hr curvy mountainous drive to Vang Vieng. Pass many villages. See many small children bent over walking on the road with rice bags on their back and heads after helping their parents work in the rice fields. I bought pencils, sharpeners, paper, toothbrush, etc. and gave them to children along the way. After arriving in Vang Vieng, which is surrounded by limestone mountains, on the Song river, climbed 147 steps to see a big cave with Stalgmites and Stalagtites. This cave and others have been used by the local people as a shelter from invading armies (but they didn't have steps). "Quaint" town, duplex style hotel where the walls were so thin I could hear the man next door snore all night even with my ear plugs, and the sheets were so thin I slept on a towel. Food and servie was good. Bribe desk clerk at another hotel to swim in the pool, since that is the only exercise I can do due to knee injury. Not worth the 9 hours over two days to visit here. Would have been better to fly from Luang Probang to Vientang. However, Unbelievable blinding sunset with mountains behind the river.

Getting tired of hole in the ground toilets. Haven't figured out how to 'flush' it. There is a bucket with water but don't want to touch it since in the villages there is never any soap or running water in these bathrooms. I prefer the 'bush'!

My driver looks like he is 16 years old but is 29 and has 2 children. My guide is a 33 year old single female whose mother supported her and her 3 siblings by selling noodle soup. Her father died while being 're-educated' by the communists in 1976. The Loa people were controlled by the chinese for 10 years, the French for 20 years twice, and the Americans for 20 years, before and during the Vietnam war. They have believed in Spirits since the 14th century, were Hindus for 900 years, and Buddists for the last 400 years. There are 7 Buddas, one for everyday. Between the age of 10 and 20 children can become Novices, and live and get educated at the temple sites (shaved head, orange wrap). For many of them it is the only way they can get an education. At the age of 21 they can choose to become Monks. If a man becomes a Monk they believe it helps their parents go to heaven.

Upon entering many places, must take off shoes and leave them outside by the front door. Cleanliness is less then standard. Where the locals eat, no soap in bathroom and maybe a towel everyond shares since many eat with fingers. This includes the food servers, who touch the food with their hands and then everthing else.

Mon. Nov 26

Early 3 hour drive to Vientiane capital of Laos, with pop of 700,000 . Many wide boulevards, more developed. Spectacular sunset overlooking river with Thailand on other side. Looked like a huge orange ball dropping from the sky (picture 1). The afterglow continued for 50 minutes! Saying at very nice Hotel with big swimming pool. Early am pick up to airport for flights to Bangkok, and onto Chaing Mai, Thailand,

Hue, Hoi An, more special places

Hue and Hoi An

Sat Nov 17

Picked up by another guide and driver for 4 1\2 hr drive to Ho Chi Min City(Saigon) for flight to Hue. On the way we stop at Co-Op Mart, the only chain grocery store in the Provence. I was so impressed. Everything is colorful from the pictures on the walls, the fake palm trees with bright flowers, to the signage. The shelves are well organized, clean with brightly wrapped goods. Six woman greeters in uniforn welcome you as you enter. Cash only. On the road see many students in their beautiful white school uniforms riding their bicylcles to school (picture 1).
Upon arrival in Hue, picked up by guide Khan, and driver Quan, and check into the elegant Imperial Hotel. Great room with view of the lake and city, great food and service. Spend evening at internet cafe.

Sun Nov 18
Walk to Dong Ba Market (picture 3) Very interesting. Wares, vegetables of every color and shape, live fish, pork insides everywhere. Then walk to Imperial City, and through the Citadel area to lunch at Yhao Garden Rest. Driver picked us up and drove to Minh Mang Tomb on peaceful, lush, beautiful lake where I meditate for a little while. Then onto the extra-ordinary Khaidinh Tomb which has all the walls decorated with unbelievable 3 dimestional mosaic tile pieces (picture 2).

Constantly raining hard on and off the whole time in Hue. Then walk to galleries with local art. Eat left over lunch and meet Karen and Rie (2 women I met on Mekon Delta Junk) to listen to music, but don't like it so we go to Imperial Hotel lobby for tea.

Mon Nov. 19

Up for 6 am swim and great breakfast. Drive to Hoi An, passing through Da Nang, with lots of construction including many 5 star resorts on China Beach, where American soldiers were stationed during the war. Drive Pass through mountains into clouds. Beautiful and lush, with waterfalls.

Hoi An has a 3000 year old history. It was a major port but due to geological changes it is now just a tourist destination.Parts of the town are still underwater due to the flooding. Walked the town with guide. Spent hours choosing fabric for bed covers and shams for Max, David, and Linda. Check into the Victoria Beach Resort. WOW! I am in a fantastic one story suite with walk to ocean. The olympic size outdoor swimming pool in 20 feet away. The weather is windy with rough seas. Spend another evening with the computer.

Tues Nov 20

After 6:30 swim, another sumptuous breakast, walk around herb and vegetable farm. Each person in the town gets a plot of land. Walk on beach, spend another few hours at fabric store to figure out measurments, great dinner at Tam Tam Cafe.

Ha Long Bay, Mekong Delta, Phan Thiet

Arived in Hanoi at 5am, then worked on Blog and went to the Sofitel Metropol for an unbelieveable brunch. Went swimming at a place "Q" suggested where I was the only caucasion. Next morn left on the 3 hour drive to Ha long Bay. Spent the night on a Junk in the Bay of 3000 rock hills jutting up out of the ocean (picture 5). Very strange! Great boat, great people, and good food. Went to see an amazing cave (picture 6) and then went kayaking (picture 7). There were at least 20 other boats all around us as it is a very popular tourist destination.
Due to flooding in Hue, my trip will be rerouted. After drivng back to Hanoi, I caught a flight to Saigon arriving to the hotel at 10pm. Saigon has wider streets and sidewalks so it seems more orderly then Hanoi and there is less horn honking. I was picked up the next morning at 7am for a 3 1/2 hour drive to Can Tho to catch another Junk (picture 8) for an overnight trip on the Mekong Delta. This boat has 12 cabins and I am assigned to the english speaking server and guide. She is very accomodating and the food is the best I have had in Vietnam.

The Meking Delta is an amazing place of 16 million people living off the abundant water and fertile land. The water is muddy brown, yet beautiful and lush like Miami, Fl. We pass primitive wood huts and old tug boats of every size and purpose carrying people and cargo.
(picture 3)
We walked through a local village and saw how they lived, and we ate at one "home" with mud floor, solid wood table that serves as a table during the day and a bed for 2 at night. The kitchen had 3 pots sitting on carved out tree trunks, storage of friut, firewood, and 3 bicycles. There was a TV, as in many of the homes. I bring combs and tooth brushes for these village children (picture 1).

The plants are exotic. Many parts of the plants and fruits are used for food, fuel, and to make things. For example, all of the rice is used for 4 purposes: The husk is for pig food, the people eat the white rice inside, the broken rice is used for chicken feed, and the ash is used as fuel to cook. The longan fruit shell and black seed is used for fuel, and the inner fruit is dried to preserve it . The village has rice fields, and a narrow paved sidewalk used for walking, motorcycles, and bicycles. (picture 4) is the toilet in the village.
Next morning we visited the floating market which is amazing to see. We took a small boat to see how food and other products are made, and shop for locally made products from rice, coconut, silk, crockodile, and longan fruit. We see how rice paper is made, popped rice and popped caramel corn, and coconut and banana candy. We buy crockodile wallets and belts, and silk products.

At noon I was picked up by my guide and driver and for a 6 1/2 hour drive to Plan Thiet, a beach resort town. Bamboo Resort is a very relaxing nice place with lounge chairs on the white, soft sand, 2 pools, nice room with french doors, great food at the open cabana style resturant with simple creative decorations, friendly accomodating service (picture 2). The beach is miles long with bungalo style resorts all the way. Tbis is a very specail place I hope to come back to and share with someone. I noticed an elegant, polished, exclusive looking place called the Coco Beach Resort.
Tommorrow morn I will be driven 4 1/2 hours to Saigon to catch a flight to Hue.

Otherworldly Sapa

Otherworldly Sapa

We took the difficult overnight train to Lao Cai. "Q" carries our luggage across many train tracks to get to my train car. There are 4 bunks in a compartment, so they bought me 4 tickets so I could have my own. Good thing I brought my own toilet paper and soap. We are woken up at 5 am to disembark at 5:30am. This lush nice town is alive with activity. It is only a 5 minute drive to China. Our driver takes us for a 3 hour drive to visit the market of the Minority people in Dam Duong. The misty, windy, narrow road is filled with many uniformed children walking and biking to school, motorbikes, buses, trucks, and cars. The weather is cool and the mountains are lush, and the sunrise is amazing.

Soon we are above the clouds on our way to 2500 ft. In the rainy season ther are many mudslides. The land is very furtile and they grow roses, tea, pumpkin, cabbage, raise trout and many other vegetables. Aluminum quarries are on the side of the road, and some of the rock is used to stop potential mudslides. After another 2 hour drive we arrive in the quaint small town of Sapa with everything from outdoor food markets to a few galleries featuring local artists.

We arrive at the peaceful Topas Eco Lodge located on the top of a misty mountain, looking over step rice fields, several Tay and Black Hmong (the people wear dark indigo clothing) villages.

The scene is otherworldly. The new stone and wood cottages with balcanies that have magnificant views, no phone, TV, or internet, yet there is cell reception. Three great

meals a day prepared by an onsite chef are included.

The next morning is a beautiful day and I go with a guide on a bike ride down the very rocky and in some places muddy mountain to a remote village of the Hmong people. It is very pretty, with pigs, chickens,step rice fields, and of course many children. The area reminds me of the mountains of Colorado except they are lush and green. We continue walking up on a very narrow path to see an even more remote village of the Red people (they wear red head dressings) and live a very primitive life. A jeep picks us up from the village where our bikes are and on our way back I hear quacking. The driver had bought a few ducks for dinner that quacked all the to my hotel.

The next morning I walked down the rice fields by myself and passed a handful of tribes people. They are friendly but don't speak english. I felt very safe. At 4:30 pm I caught a 40 minute van ride to Sapa to use the internet. I took a motorcycle taxi back to the Lodge at 7 pm. It was totally black, bumpy, and cold. I closed my eyes the whole way.

Tommorrow I take the uncomfortable overnight train ride back to Hanoi.

Hanoi Communism with Capitalism?

Hanoi

Nov 7

This morning we went to Ho Chi Min tomb and Presidential Palace. The Vietnam people are very proud of him. The Temple of Literature is where the Royal children were schooled. In 1425 the poor people from the provinces competed to be chosen to study there, and they were to become the leaders of the country.

I asked "Q", my guide, about how the Vietnamese feel toward Americans. He said his grandparents who were in the war do not like to interact with Americans. His father was shot in the leg by an American soldier, and even though he previously did not like Americans, his parents are now more accepting. "Q" belives the younger generation who did not experience the war, like American music, clothes cigerettes, and have a positive attitude toward Americans. He agrees with America going into Iraq and getting rid of Saddam.

He is the middle child of 3. Since he was 6 months old, his mother worked at the embassy in Hong Kong, and would come home to visit for 2 weeks every 2 years. This schedule continued until he was 11 years old. When I asked him how he felt about this, he told me he remembers being driven to school on a bicycle and how all the children thought his mother must have a very important job to be able to afford a bike. He likes the current system of communism with controled capitalism.

All motor vehicles use their horn constantly to let everyone else know where they are. It is unerving! Many women on motorcycles wear scarves on there faces to protect themselves from the sun.

I walked around the Hoin kiem Lake near my hotel, which is like the 'Central Park' of Hanoi. It is in the middle of Old Hanoi. 1'000s of people, walking, jogging, lovers kissing, traffic and shopping all around the boardwalk.

"Q" is getting married in 20 days to a girl is also a tour guide. He is 27 years old, and says this is the average age for a male to get married.

Hanoi Wild, Busy, Crazy place

Hanoi
Wild, Busy, Crazy place

Nov 6

Today I was picked up at the airport in Hanoi by my young english speaking guide. He will travel with me on my entire trip to the north. My guide told me that 10 years ago the dream was to have a bicycle, now it is to have a car and big house. After checking into my hotel, I walked into the madness of Hanoi: 5 million people, motorcycles everywhere, street vendors covering every inch of sidewalk, constant horn beeping, noise, winding maze of streets, small narrow shops (picture 1 and 2). I walked to a park (it's their Central Park)with a large lake in the middle of this bustling city. It took me 20 minutes to find a resturaunt that was only 3 blocks away. Luckily the menu was in English. There are few street lights, so you just cross the streets with hundreds of fast moving vehicles, mostly motorcycles, coming at you hoping you make it to the other side in one piece. The computer at this internet cafe is soooo slow. The time difference to Denver is at least 14 hours. I am going to take a shower and go to sleep. Tommorow is a full day tour of Hanoi, and then an overnight train to Sapa.