Chile: Atacama Desert

Jan 23
I am up at 4 am for a 5am transfer to the airport for flt to Santiago (3 hr early needed for international flight). Then have a 7 hr layover for 2 hr flt to Atacama, the dryest desert in the world. On my 1 1/2 hr drive to hotel, on the only paved road, I wonder if I am on the moon or in Hell. It is a desolate and peculiar place. The driver tells me that there is arsenic in the water so I shouldn't drink it. I did see a great sunset with sand and rock covered with many shades of tan, brown, and gold.

I was encouraged by my travel agent to try another hotel instead of Explora, which I had heard was great. Finally arriving at 9pm, the toilet seat came off when I lifted it in my bathroom, there is only one choice of excusion for all 12 people each day and one guide, there is a late loud concert in the town that I can hear from my room, I stepped on a piece of glass in my shower, and after many late night phone calls and emails to my travel agent, the computer stopped working and the emergency number for him didn´t work.
Jan 24

So at 9am I went on the hotel tour for a 1 1/2 hr drive to 2 lakes (Miscante Lake) with snow capped mts in the distance, blue and green water, off white sand trimmed with white calsite, and many shades of color on sand and rock hills. 19% of Chile is National Parks and Reserves.
Human settlement in Atacama started 12,000 yrs ago. Atacamians, their decendants, still live here. Five thousand people live in Atacama with 2 thousand living in San Pedro De Atacama. Terrace farming is used to grow corn, potatoes, and greenbeans. There are lithium and copper mines. We pass large areas of chunky lava rock with holes. It rains only 1 to 7 days a year and causes flooding when it does. It snows about 5 times a year. With 200 active of the 2080 volcanos in Chile, there are frequent earthquakes in Chile, often with daily tremers (there was a 7.8 scale earthquake 6 weeks ago).
Upon my return to the hotel at 4:30pm, I recieved a call that I could move to Explora. I quickly packed and was picked up by an Explora driver and arrived with 5 min to get ready for an excursion to the salt flats in Moon Valley at 7500ft.. The Explora has a great view of the snow capped mts and has 4 swimming pools. I am so glad to have the Explora experience again.

Jan 25
Went an a great 9 mile hike today to Machuca Grande Valley at 14,000 ft.. On the drive there and on the hike saw Vicuna, which produce the finest wool in the world, llama, vizcascha (look like rabbits), goats, geese, flamingos. The contrasts in topography was so interesting. Brown rocky mts to lush green oasis. We saw many abandoned stone huts and terrace farms due to the Atacamaian people now working as drivers and other service jobs for the tourist industry.

Jan 26

Went on a 2 1/2 hr hike to the hot springs at 10,000 ft. Climbed over and around many rocks and rivers. Saw many cactus and oasis. A picnic lunch was waiting for us at the hot spring. upon returning to Explora, I swam and packed for my flight to Santiago at 7pm.

Jan 27

I am staying in a nice suite at the Plaza de Bosque Hotel. The El Bosque area is an upscale, quiet neighborhood with wide streets and mixed with commercial and residential buildings. I follow a tree and flower lined path along the river ,pass through a sculpture garden, and at Pedro De Valdivia St. cross a small bridge into a peaceful old residential area with homes close together, high hedges and gates. Entering the Parque Metropolitano on a Sunday morning I see many people road and mt biking, jogging, walking, and sitting. The park is on a small mt with trees, waterfalls, dirt paths and paved roads, resturants, zoo, pool, gardens, and has a great view of all of Santiago.

I leave on a 10pm flt to Miami.

Argentina: Bariloche, Buenos Aires

Jan 18
Leave for the Lake boat crossing at 8am, and after 3 buses and 3 ferries, we arrive at our hotel in Bariloche at 10pm. Way too long! We were going to stay at a great resort called Llao Llao but it is 30 minute cab ride out of town, so we decided to stay at a Jr suite at the Design Suite Hotel, with wood floors, great lake and mt view, and a jacuzzi in our room. Went to dinner at 11pm.Jan 18 Leave for the Lake boat crossing at 8am, and after 3 buses and 3 ferries, we arrive at our hotel in Bariloche at 10pm. Way too long! We were going to stay at a great resort called Llao Llao but it is 30 minute cab ride out of town, so we decided to stay at a Jr suite at the Design Suite Hotel, with wood floors, great lake and mt view, and a jacuzzi in our room. Went to dinner at 11p

Jan 20
Arrive in Buenos Aires and stay at the Loi Suites Hotel in great location, room and service. Sharon and I walk to the Cemetary where many famous people are buried in connected, architectually designed marble masoleums. Looks like wealthy neighborhood of small townhomes. Then on to artisian outdoor market, where we ran into a couple we met at Explora in Torres Del Paine who are coincidentally are staying at our hotel , and another couple we met on the Lake crossing. After making plans to get together, Sharon and I return to our hotel for a needed nap and on to dinner in the Polermo Soho area.
Read in magazine http://www.soybuenosaires.com/ for info on what to do here
Jan. 21
Our guide Natalia takes us for a half day tour of Buenos Aires. There are 39 mil people in Argentina, of which 15 mil live in Buenos Aires and the surrounding suburbs (3 and 1/2 mil in city). Argentina is a Catholic country, but has the 5th largest Jewish community in the world. Inflation and unemployment are a problem. There is a strong French and Italian architectual influence from the 1920-1940. The wealthy people were the landowners, and exporters of wheat and meat.

We visit Puerto Modero, the newest area where at least a 1000 expensive apt are being built. Much of the development in this area is being done by an investment group lead by Alan Faena, an Argentinean clothes designer. We stopped by the very exclusive Faena Hotel. This was a working class neighborhood since the 30´s and is still used as their weekend recreation area. We also drive through the Barrio Park area of the rich and famous. In the evening we go to an expensive Tango show which we mildly enjoy (terrible food).

Jan 22
Swim. Take Jewish tour of Buenos Aires. There are approx 250,000 Jews, which is the largest in Latin America, and the 5th largest in the world. While Arentina was a Spanish Colony and during the Inquisiton, no Jews were allowed in Argetina. After 1816 when Argentina gained its independence, mostly professional western European Jews began to immigrate. During the dictatorship between 1976-1983, 30,000 activists, intellectuals and leftists were murdered, of which 1500 were Jewish. Even though the country accepting of many minorites, there continues to be anti semitism in the police force.
Not until 1994 could Jews gain full citizenship including run for president (prior to this had to be Catholic). Life changed for Jews after the 1994 bombing of the Jewish Community Center where 85 people were killed. No one was ever charged with this crime, and for 10 years on Mondays at 9:53am (the day and time of the bombing) families of those killed demonstrated in front of the Federal Court Building where there is a small memorial today with the 85 names on it.
Due to tight security, it is prohibited to take pictures in front of any Jewish temples, schools, or community centers. Our guide had to make an appt for us to see the inside of the beautiful 1930´s Gran Temple, where he is a member, aka Paso Street Temple(temples here are called by the name of the street they are located on). It's membership includes only about 200 families, but is a popular venue for weddings. We visited several jewish neighborhoods, saw the outside of the impressive Libertal St Synagogue, and drove by the only Kosher Mc Donalds in BA. (closed Saturdays) During the financial crisis in 2001, many Jews lost their livelihoods and were assisted by Jewish Agencies from all over the world.

Chile: Puerto Varas

Chile Puerto Varas

Jan 15

Fantastic day! Driven to the bottom of Osorno volcano by our enthusiastic guide and driver, Ingrid (picture 1). On the way saw salmon farming, potato and corn farms, and llamas. Hiked to rapids which were amazing (picture 3). We had lunch at Petrohue resturant next to the Cruze de Lagos dock. Continued to Las Cascadas since Sharon wanted to go on the Zipline. Even though I never thought I would do it, I over came my fear and even looked down. The highest point was 500 ft. with 11 platforms. It was very cool. Did a hike around the Osorno volcano through a lush, wet forest with trees laden with moss and ferns forming canopies, narrow rocky paths along the streams, reaching a pounding waterfall that hit the bottom with an incredible force (picture 2 and 4). Had dinner on the way back in Ensenada, a town of 1000 people, and returned to our hotel at 11pm.

Jan 16
Met with manager of local tour co to resolve cost issues due to changes in the itinerary from 9am am to 1pm. Sharon stayed in town while Ingid dove me 1 1/2 hrs to hike around the Calbuco volcano. Passed through Puerto Montt, a community of 200,000 people colonized by germans who have salmon farming, dairy, wood and tourism industry. It was a challenging hike through beautiful wet, muddy, lush forest filled with cyprus (3000 yr old), canelo, conifer, nothfagus trees, and many wild flowers. Had to climb rock walls (one had a view of the snow covered top of the Osorno volcano, waterfalls and lush foliage), step on tree roots and logs to avoid large puddles of water, and withstand horseflies that are relentless in the open areas out in the sun (picture 5). Returned at 9:30pm, showered for 10:30pm dinner reservation with Sharon at Ibis (great food).

Jan 17
Drove along the ocean coast road of Carretera Austral on way to Alcerce Andino Nat'l Park. Saw mussel farming, sheep and dairy cows onthe way. We hiked through another enchanted wet rain forest, with lots of Bamboo. Everything was covered with moss and ferns on our way to a waterfall and lake. Sharon and I went back to Ibis for another good dinner. I had a good 2 hr. message from 10 pm to midnight.

Chile:Torres del Paine

Jan 10
Love the Explora experience. Great food, well traveled, interesting and friendly people from all over the world. Arrived at an unassuming set of buildings, and enter upon a very cool enviroment of understated yet sofisticated style, unbelievable scenery, and great service. Sharon and I unpack and quickly go to hear about the afternoon choices of activities. I choose the 3 hr hike leaving in 10 minutes and rush to get ready. It is a moderately difficult hike with very strong wind gusts. I am worn out by the time we return. I take a hot bath to rejuvenate for evening presentation of the next days activity choices, and a specially ordered satisfying dinner. I have fun socializing and working on blog but get to sleep too late.
Jan 11
6am wake up call. We take boat ride on lake to place where picked up by dingy and taken to shore for great 4 hr hike to see Glaciers. At the end of the hike we are served a picnic and then are picked up by dingy, taken to previous boat, and brought very close to the Glaciers. The Glaciers are Spectacular! Incredible! Unreal! I will try to arrange to be able to walk on a Glacier. I swim in the lap pool and then enjoy the hot tub before chossing next day hike and hearing a very interesting lecture on Chile and Patagonia geological history. Sharon and I were invited to have dinner with a wonderful coouple from San Fransisco. I feel so priviledged to be having so many extraordinary experiences.

Jan 12

The view from the look out point of Toro Heights is fantastic. I see Paine Grands Mt. with hanging glaciers, the French Valley, the Horns, the meeting of the milky Gray River and the blue Srano River (which then both meet the Pacific Ocean), and the huge emerald green Toro Lake where it meets the Paine River. The amount of sediment creates the color of the water. The way down was steep with crumbled slate and sandstone (600 ft). Van was waiting for us to return to Explora. Swam, hot tub, and dinner.

Jan 13

Today was one of the highlights of my trip. 6:15 am pick up to ice hike on a Glacier! Driven by Explora van to zodiac, then onto the boat I was on to see glaciers, on to another zodiac to reach the Glacier. After 15 minute lesson on how to use the crampons(metal cleats) by my private guide, I put them on and a harness. (There are usually 10 people and 2 guides, but today, I am the only person, and 2 photographers preparing a web site for the glacier hiking co have another guide. I am in several pictures they take). It is like walking on ice cubs with cleats. My guide holds tightly onto my harness as I step close to the crevices, and look down into the deep blue revines and take pictures. The red and yellow colors are absorbed by the ice, but the blue color is not, hence the blue color. It appears as if there is a blue light underneath the ice. Blue rivers of water flow on top of and below the ice, sometimes creating small caves. It is truly awesome!!

The glacier is constantly moving, so it changes everyday. I am very lucky that the sun keeps coming out causing everything to sparkle. At the end of the hike there are gusty winds, and the toes on my left foot are numb. I was on the ice for 3 hrs, but it felt like only 45 min. I hand wash laundry, take a swim and hot tub, give out tips, have a great dinner, and say goodbye to new friends, many of whom also leave tommorrow to continue their journeys.

Chile: Santiago, Easter Island, Puerto Arenas

Jan 3 2008
8 hr flight to Santiago, a city of 6 million people. I took a long walk from old downtown where my hotel is to Barrio Bellavista, an up and coming funky area with multicolored buildings, many rest. and bars, young people, and too much graffiti (I am told that here graffiti is accepted as a part of self expression and not connected with gangs). I end up at Patio Bellavisto, with little shops and casual rest. Azul Profundo at Constitution 111 is supposed to be a good fish rest.

Jan 4
After swimming and a big breakfast, I am met by my guide , Diego, and my driver. Diego is 22 years old and a student studying to get a teaching and language degree. We go on a walking tour, and then get picked up by the driver to see the El Bosque neighborhood in the Providence District, referred to as the new downtown. I like this area very much and take pictures of many interesting buildings (picture1). I ask to be left there and continue to walk. I enter the Ritz Hotel where it is suggested I take a taxi ride to Los Dominicos handicraft Center , with good quaility handicrafts and fair prices. I buy 3 different silver and lapis stone candlesticks to put together. The taxi driver returned to drive me to the metro (standing room only and very hot) which I took to my hotel. I am return via metro(Tobalaba stop) to El Bosque to eat dinner at, Coco Loco, a great fish rest. (they open at 8pm) The homemade icecream was fantastic. Nolita is another recommended restaurant in this area. Another upscale area known for exclusive shops and expensive homes, is called Costa Nera in the Vitacara District. We drive past South Lucia Hill which I hope to return to.

Jan 5
Arrive on Easter Island after a 5 hr delay and 5 hr flt. Has 3,3o4 inhabitants and is the most isolated place on earth. It was formed by volcanic eruptions 3 mil years ago. The last eruption was 3000 years ago. In the 17th and 18th century there was overpopulation followed by war between the tribes. Between 1862 and 1863 slave ships took more than 1000 natives to work in the peruvian islands. The infections introduced destroyed the population leaving 111 islanders. In 1888 Chile incorporated the Island. Moai are rock statues which were dedicated to their ancesters. There are 900 on the Island. It was believed that their spirit could protect their people and were built to face the village.
The explora hotel hass very architecture (picture 2,3). Great food! View of ocean.
I walk 40 minutes to the ocean on a dirt road. I pass grazing horses, and locals planting sweet potatoes. The horses look healthy but I am told that many of them die due to lack of water and food.

Jan 6
Hiked Moai Road to Rano Raraku quary where Moai were made. There are 400 in different stages of the carving process. Each clan carved their own Moai. After they were completed they were somehow brought to the coast. The average weight was 40 tons. I have met many interesting people staying at my hotel from all over the world (Joanna and Felippe, and Mark and Sarah). This afternoon we will visit caves on the coast.

Jan 7
In the morning we hiked 4 hrs through small forests (most of the trees were cut down many years ago), caves, and rolling hills to highest point on Easter Island called Terevaka (picture 5), with 360 degree view. Spectacular deep dark blue ocean. We walked to Ana Kena Beach (picture 6) for a late leisurely lunch, and a swim in the warm waves.

After returning to the hotel for a quick hot bath, we drove to Vinapu and the National Rapa Nui Orongo Park to see the ceremonial site of the Birdman Religion. They held an annual competition from 1800 to 1864, until missionaries came and the Islanders became Catholic. The purpose of the competition was to determine whose clan would provide the next leader of the island. One member of each clan would send a man to race down a 300 meter cliff, swim to a small Island near by, wait for birds to arrive from a nearby Island, climb to get their egg, and carrying it, swim back and climb back up the 300 meter cliff (picture 7). Their homes looked like upside down canoes. We also saw the nearby crater whose bank was used to grow sweet potatoes and pineapples, and today is used to supply water to the entire Island.
My experience at the Explora hotel which opened 2 weeks ago is OK. The dining room is understaffed, my room phone has not worked since I have been here, the AC did not work the first night, the pool was not ready, and the manager is rigid. I have heard from others here that they have had much better experiences at the other Explora hotels. The guides are good, the food is good, and the hotel has a very distinct and interesting design made of stone and fitting in with the surrounding nature.
Jan 8
Leave for Santiago and meet Sharon. We begin our journey together.
Jan 9
Catch 3 and 1\2 hr flight to Puerto Arenas. We walk around the town, have a late lunch and a little shopping at a very interesting high quality handicraft store called Faba(also have a store in Santiago). At 4:30pm we are picked up for a 1 hr. drive to see the penguin nesting area called Turis Otway (picture 7). We drive along the Seno Fjiord, with a view of the Andes mts., and pass the southern most point of land were the Atlantic Ocean connects with the PacificOcean. It is extremely windy as we walk 30 minutes through natural habitat of the penguins all the way to the ocean. We see ostridge (Rhea), birds, and many penguins. Penguins are life mates and come to the land to breed, lay 2 eggs which hatch 40 days later. At 3 months old the penguins change to waterproof feathers and go to the ocean. There are 5 main predators: fox, whale, birds, seals and sea lions. There is an Island near by of sea lions,and one of 100,000 penguins. They can live to be 18 years old. 25 million year old Fossils of penguins have been found.

Jan 10
We drive with Explora guide 6 hrs. to Paine de Torres.

Miami Dec 20 2007 to Jan 2, 2008

Dec 20
I return to Miami via Israel, with Tamar, my son Max´s girlfriend. I have many family events to celebrate each day, Chanukah party, sisters birthday party, mothers 75th birthday party and parents 56th wedding anniversary. My parents are taking all of our family on a 5 day cruise, including my children, and my sisters and their families. I have many doctor appts, and friends to see, and New Years to celebrate with my girlfriend Laurie!!! I am so lucky to share much love with my friends and family.