Saturday, March 1, 2008

India, Jaisalmer

India, Jaisalmer





Jan 25
On our way to Jaisalmer, the golden city, we stop at 1600 year old Fort Pokaron. It has a sort of museum, with a small hotel with some renovated rooms. This muslim town made me feel like I stepped back in time, with many turban headed men carrying riffles slung over their shoulder. The landscape is changing (no cactus, three kinds of bushy plants) and we are entering the desert.
After a 5 hr drive, we arrive at my hotel outside of town, Fort Rajwara, a very comfortable 8 year old hotel in the style of an old fort. After a brief rest, we drive 1 hour into the desert for a camel ride onto the sand dunes to watch the sunset. On my camel, I pass a couple who I ask to take my picture with my camera and it turns out their daughter goes to My daughters college
(picture 5). How is that for coincidence? I choose a dune overlooking a camel safari camp. The sunset in amazing!
Feb 26
With my guide I visit Garisagra Lake, (picture 4) a 300 year old man made lake which was the water source for this city when it was a major trading center, and silk route with 2000 visitors per day.
The district of Jiasalmer is 60% Muslim and has a total pop of 500,000. Most of the buildings are made of sandstone that has a yellow sheen in the sunlight.
Jiasalmer Fort is 850 years old and has a pop of 3000 living in 620 homes, most of which have been passed from one generation to the next. The Brahman caste, and the Rajput caste of people who service the community, live there. The different castes in Jaisalmer live within their own communities. In fact, many streets have the name of the caste and trade associated with the people who lived there (this system was followed until 70 yrs ago) ; ie, silversmith, carpenter, builder, shoemaker, Braham, etc.
My guide is a Brahman and his home is within the Fort, with his brother's shop on the first floor. I purchase a hand made patchwork quilt made from 50 year old pieces of Muslim village womans costumes (gold metal stitching called Jeri work). I also buy a patchwork purse made from 7 -8 Hindu womens costumes for mY neice. Each caste community has a different material color and stitching design.
We walk through the market and I watch people engaged in the activities of their daily lives. I visit two sandstone buildings that are so intricately carved that they look like wood (picture 1): Natmal Ki Haveli, the previous home of the Prime Minister (picture 3), and Patwah Haveli, a wealthy merchants house (picture 1). Within these homes there are many beautiful textiles, and antiques objects made out of camel bone to purchase.

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